Officially Swiss!
Before leaving Basel we knew that to become a real local we had to do a complete swim in the Rhine. Last year Larry and Ken took a small dip in the river. But they had yet to complete the full Basel swimming route (from one end of town to the other end). Like everyone else, we threw our dry clothes in the requisite Schwimmen Tasche (a floatable waterproof bag) and we all jumped into the cool refreshing water on a hot 92° F day. The current pulled us along in a surprisingly gentle manner past the cathedral, under the bridges and in view of the quaint city landscape. Larry and Nina were able to manage the waters without any difficulties. We were all having a ball. Until…
Even floating down the river requires some effort. So for good measure, I suggested we take a break midway through our course. We swam off to the nearest stopping point where Larry was the first to discover that we had landed right at a nude beach! Maybe if we had stumbled upon bare breasted women he wouldn’t have been so anxious to leave. But that wasn’t the case. Since we were out on the Rhine to enjoy the full on European experience, I made Larry suffer through the sight of obese naked old men with all their parts unapologetically dangling in the sun – rolls, folds and all. Larry couldn’t jump back in the river fast enough. I guess you can say that now we have truly seen everything in Basel!
Berlin – Kid Central
Ken and I were excited to explore Berlin, a city overflowing with rich history, art and cutting edge architecture. But as usual, our ideas didn’t quite match up with those of Larry and Nina. Yes, we squeezed in a little bit of culture. But those memories take a back seat to what the kids consider the real highlights of Berlin. For starters, Larry and Nina fulfilled their “lifelong dream” (actual quote from the kids) of rolling around in human sized hamster balls!
If you ask the kids about the other significant parts of their Berlin vacation, don’t expect to hear about the Holocaust memorial and its eerie feeling (though you might get some animated feedback from Larry on its great climbing features); or the view from atop the ultra modern sleek Reichstag Dome (Nina will proudly tell you that she got us bumped up into the VIP line); or viewing a piece of the Berlin wall; or seeing the superb sculpture of Nefertiti in the Altes Museum; or passing through Brandenburger Gate; or the strikingly poignant bombed out Kaiser-Wilhelm Church that stands as a memorial in Breitscheidplatz.
Nope. They will tell you: that the zoo has the most amazing nocturnal exhibit and the best playground; that the aquarium with its Aquadome elevator was worth the wait; that Madame Tussaud’s was not cheesy, but “awesome”; that mom and dad were mean because we didn’t buy anything in the fabulous toy section of KaDeWe department store (Nina will also point out mom’s cruel refusal to splurge on a $12 box of Pop Tarts in the food emporium); that swimming in the hotel pool was the best part of every day in Berlin; and that trampoline bungee jumping in Breitscheidplatz rocks.
As for Berlin from a food perspective: Larry never encountered a soft pretzel he didn’t like, Nina found herself in heaven with all the Dunkin Donuts chains spread across the city, I enjoyed many a currywurst, and Ken indulged in a local specialty - green beer! Berlin offered something for everyone, even if it wasn’t the vacation Ken and I had originally envisioned.
World Cup Fever
One of the benefits of living in Europe this year has been witnessing the passion and energy of soccer enthusiasts and the 2010 World Cup. Everywhere we went televisions broadcast the games. Some places set up special giant screens in town squares or at outdoor bars just for the occasion. Any eating establishment that didn’t own a television during game time was doomed to be empty. Country flags were displayed everywhere, fans of victorious teams ran around crazily yelling and celebrating, and soccer talk was welcome conversation just about anywhere.
Larry and Nina inevitably caught World Cup fever. In addition to watching the games, the kids fell prey to the biggest moneymaker since Pokemon cards. The hot items for kids in Europe during World Cup season were Panini cards. This year there were 638 sticker cards to collect that could be placed in an official sticker album. Once kids filled their albums, they enjoyed endless bragging rights and the envy of their peers. For weeks all we heard were the kids’ pleas for more Panini cards. Larry and Nina eventually filled their book. But they were way behind their classmates whose parents resorted to making trades in the school cafeteria after morning drop-offs. And truth be told, I got sucked into making Panini deals for the kids too! Another low point for mom.
We were fortunate to be in Berlin when Germany beat Argentina in the second knockout round of the World Cup. The excitement in town upon their country’s victory was pervasive and contagious. Cars sped by honking their horns while people screamed out their windows. Drunk, happy crowds passed by and bonded with anyone sporting German colors. On our way to dinner, our cab driver enthusiastically zipped through the city streets in high spirits from Germany’s win. I believe he was a bit too enthusiastic because, as he shouted out “Today anything is possible”, he flew right through a red light! Maybe the cab driver believed a German soccer victory made him impervious to death, but I was not so convinced. Nina loved that a local shopkeeper, also elated from the soccer match, showered us with free beads and discounts on all of our purchases. I told the man, “I just can’t give you my money today.” To which he just smiled and handed me another free item. Thank you, Team Germany!
Portugal
The first thing Larry and Nina do whenever we walk into a new hotel is race straight toward the brochure stands. That way they can point out all the kid-friendly attractions of which we will likely be depriving them. When we arrived in Portugal, the kids predictably waved their brochures at us for the waterpark, the zoo and the aquarium. But Ken and I didn’t spend half a day traveling to the Algarve (Portugal’s southern coast) to sightsee. We went there for one reason – the beaches. Fortunately, sun, sand and water satisfy all of us. Nina discovered shell paradise, Larry and Ken splashed in the waves and created a mini Mont St. Michel in the sand, Ken and I drank bottles of the refreshing Portuguese Vinho Verde (a slightly bubbly wine), we ate wonderful fresh seafood at beachside restaurants every evening without any al fresco disasters (my risk taking finally paid off – no creepy crawlies, bees or bold birds!) while the kids played in the sand, and I stuffed myself with creamy flaky custard tarts (pastel de nata) like the ones my Aunt Kitty used to buy from the Portuguese bakery in Jersey City. When we weren’t lazing around on the beach, Nina and Larry spent all of their time in our condo’s rooftop Jacuzzi with the spectacular view of the ocean. I think we’ve officially gone beyond spoiled (and I’m not just talking about the children).
Parental Love Has No Bounds
The sun and sea put us in such a great mood that we even broke down and rented a crazy paddleboat equipped with a twisty slide. Though I nearly died of exhaustion trying to paddle the monstrous contraption against the wind and waves, I took satisfaction in watching Ken and Larry plunge into the icy cold Atlantic. This was the second time we all got to hear Ken scream like a little girl during our European adventures! Nina and I were no fools. We opted to stay on board the whole time.
City Time
Though we left the beach much to Larry and Nina’s disappointment, the kids eventually warmed up to the city sights of Lisbon. Nina had had so much fun during our beach portion of the trip that she retracted her earlier ban against castles and allowed me to visit Castel São Jorge. She immediately regretted that decision when she found herself trudging up the steep hills of the Alfama district in the summer heat. But after a few snide remarks from Larry, “Oh, great. Another view. Ooohh. Ahhh.” (Sarcasm from children. Isn’t it precious?), everyone found their groove. To Nina’s excitement, peacocks and cats roamed freely on the hilltop fortress; Larry got to climb tall towers; and I got my castle moment. (Ken got to stand in line for tickets.)
Lisbon’s sidewalk mosaics, beautifully tiled buildings, its copy of the Golden Gate bridge and hilly streets that reminded us of San Francisco (and that going home was just around the corner), another al fresco dinner, more great art and architecture, a quick stop at a Ginjinha bar for a Portuguese syrupy berry liqueur, the breathtaking Monument of the Discoveries and Belem Tower along the Tagus River, and the easy going lazy summer evenings of the city made for a nice last European vacation. For the kids, the crowning moment was dinner at the Hard Rock Café. (To each his own they say.)
Europa Park
If Portugal was my last hurrah, then Europa Park was certainly Larry and Nina’s. Last year the kids had so much fun at the German amusement park that we promised to return before moving back home. This time we splurged for a room at the Vegas-like Colosseo Hotel right outside the park. The kids and Ken enjoyed the indoor/outdoor pool at our Roman themed hotel, while I braved the adults-only clothing optional co-ed steam bath (Living in Europe has finally made me nonchalant to the sight of naked people). The next day we got an early start at the amusement park and put in a full 10 hours of rides, arcades and attractions. If the kids could describe heaven, they’d call it Europa Park.
A Fitting Send-Off
Our last day at Hirzbodenweg 94 turned out to be rather chaotic with house cleaners, inspections and a circus of people in and out of the place. By the time we handed the keys over and pulled away from the house, my head was in a state of frenzy and shock. It was anything but a quiet and calm departure from a place that held so many special and wonderful memories for the past nineteen months. No one really had much time to think about goodbyes or to process the events of the day. The kids were too excited to check out the hotel that would be home for the next two nights. At dinner that evening, Larry made a speech and thanked us for bringing him to Switzerland and for all the great adventures we had. The kids both admitted that they were going to miss Switzerland. I finally felt vindicated for making the family move to Europe!
We spent our last full day in Basel like tourists taking in the sights that we enjoyed most: the Munster (cathedral), the farmers’ market in Marktplatz, a ferry ride on the Rhine, the colorful Rathaus, the flea market at Petersplatz, the street performers on Freiestrasse, slushies at the kiosk in Barfusserplatz, and a walk along the Rhine. For our final dinner in Switzerland we ate schnitzel, fries and beer. My favorite Swiss German meal!
Our last day in Basel also happened to be the eve of Swiss National Day – the night when they have their biggest fireworks display of the year. After a day of walking around the city, we could see the excitement building. Fireworks, Swiss flags and patriotic kitsch lined every storefront sidewalk. Food booths, outdoor bars, blaring music, games, trinket vendors and even kids’ rides filled the streets of town. Tons of people were having fun and staking out their spots for the evening’s fireworks display.
Fortunately, we didn’t have to worry about where we would stand to watch the fireworks. We had been invited to a party at a house right on the Rhine with a great view of the river and all the excitement. With the music blaring and the crowds of people passing by, we took in the surreal moment behind our nice calm barricade. It was our last night in Basel and there was a party, we imagined, just for us. Then the music stopped and it was show time. The fireworks did not disappoint and we had a front row view: the Rhine, the Three Kings Hotel, the throngs of people lining the river and the town’s old bridge. What a great finale to a wonderful adventure.
All Good Things Must Come To An End
“Wonderful” does not adequately describe the experience of living in Switzerland. For the past year and a half I lived out my dream: I traveled all over Europe, spoke (and butchered) different languages, ate new and interesting foods, enjoyed numerous cultural and artistic sites, made new friends (and bonded more with old ones), constantly learned new things, watched my kids get cultured, and had so many fantastic experiences. I couldn’t have asked for anything more.
Fourteen countries, 7 cross country flights, 4 long train rides, 3 death defying cab drivers (at least), 1 lost tooth, 5 speeding tickets (all Ken’s!), 1 flat tire, 1 swindled husband, 2 traumatic tram incidents with the kids, 3 al fresco dining disasters, 5 steps in poop, and countless communication gaps. What have we learned from this experience? We survived it all and had a blast.
When the plane touched down in San Francisco on August 1st, Larry and Nina clapped their hands in excitement. They couldn’t contain their smiles and their happiness to be back in California. When we reunited with friends and family after our long absence, life started to feel satisfyingly normal again. In the end, there’s really no place like home.
Bye Bye, Basel!
Excerpts from the Journals of Larry and Nina
During summer vacation I went to Berlin. One day we went to the zoo. After the zoo, we went to a platz next to a ruined church. In the platz there was trampoline bungee jumping…There was a girl on the trampoline too. Afterwards, she went up to us and said, “Speak English?” We said yes and she gave us a piece of paper asking for money. Mom yelled at her because she paid 5 euros to play on the trampoline then went asking for money. Afterwards, I completed one of my life dreams by going into a hamster ball. It is so fun. I got in and I was floating on water. I was falling all the time, but it was still fun. Larry, July 5, 2010
During summer break I went to Salema, Portugal. Salema is like probably the smallest town in the Algarve. I liked it there because there’s a beach right near almost every restaurant. While I was waiting for my food every night, I got to play on the beach. Two nights I was a risk-taker because I [ate] a fish eye. On the last night, Nina and I built a sand mountain…We met this British kid who helped. That was my excellent time on Salema beach. Larry July 19, 2010
The next day [of our Portugal vacation] we were off to Lisbon. And of course there’s a Hard Rock Café there. That means 2 things: (1) we have to go; and (2) it means we’re not at a beach anymore. And that means…we spend our last full day mostly at another castle…Out of all I don’t know what my favorite part was because I loved this vacation. It was lots of fun for all of us and I want to do something like that again. But I think I know Larry’s favorite part was the Hard Rock. Nina July 20, 2010.
Das Ende
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