Ken missed out on some great moments in Switzerland this month due to work travels. Not to worry, he enjoyed quite a few too. As for me, I took advantage of the quiet streets and the post holiday calmness. Like a true local, I didn’t let a little snow slow me down or prevent me from exploring Basel’s many museums and hidden treasures. I even got better at keeping pace with the incredibly fit Swiss. Now I can actually overtake the old ladies walking up the steep hills around town! Though they still have one over on me when it comes to biking...
Rivalry, Swiss Style
Since the 14th century, Basel has been a city divided into two parts - Grossbasel (Greater Basel) on the left bank with its medieval old town and bustling markets; and Kleinbasel (Lesser Basel) on the right bank, an eclectic working class neighborhood. The incorporation of Kleinbasel into the more prosperous Grossbasel created some tension and competition between the two sides of town back in feudal days.
Today the rivalry continues, albeit playfully and with restraint, in Kleinbasel’s annual Vogel Gryff festival. Every January the district’s traditional carnival figures go to the middle of the town’s bridge and perform dances with their backs in defiance to Grossbasel. I’m sure that was quite the insult ages ago.
In the 15th century, responding to Kleinbasel’s impudence, Grossbasel’s leader hung up a gargoyle (Lällekönig) mocking the city’s rivals. The mechanized king’s head rolls his eyes and sticks his tongue out at the folks across the river, even today.
After freezing my limbs off in 20°F weather for almost two hours to witness the highly popular Vogel Gryff, I’d say that Grossbasel still gets the last laugh. No one has to brave the bitter cold to show defiance to the other side. They have a statue to do it all year round.
Identity Crisis
I’ve been tucking into a lot of cafés lately to warm up from the gray bitter days. In the process, I’ve discovered one need not settle for just a cup of coffee and a pastry. I don’t know if this is uniquely Swiss, but I’ve come across many a restaurant, café, or bar offering some other kind of goods or services alongside their food and drink. You never know what you’re going to get when you pop into a local business. Take, for example, the Mercedes Caffé. In the back room of this popular café, the establishment offers up for sale the latest Mercedes cars – complete with a floor model on display for your perusal. Come for a drink, leave with a car!
I’ve likewise encountered gift shops or clothing stores with restaurants or cafés tucked away inside. But the bar in my neighborhood remains my personal favorite. Not only can you consume an espresso or a beer in a sleek trendy setting, you can purchase flooring while you do so. Maybe the Swiss are onto something. These combo stores might be saving many a marriage by enabling wives to entice their otherwise reluctant spouses to accompany them shopping. With beer in hand, picking out linoleum has never been such fun! Yes, the Swiss have done it again. Pure genius.
Food News
For every occasion and season, there exists a special food here in Switzerland. Keeping up with the variety of treats can be quite a challenge when new temptations appear in bakeries and stores almost weekly. This month I discovered a treat called Apfel Streusli. The sublime streusel-topped mini apple tart was big enough for two people, but consumed by just one (on two occasions). Then there was the Quarktorte, the Osterflädli, the streusel-topped donut thing, the green fondant covered cream donut that Nina picked out, and rich chocolaty rum balls (Punschkugel). Sadly, I have to admit that the dryer is not shrinking my clothing.
If only the Swiss made more sweets like Vermicelles, then I’d be okay. This dessert appears in almost every bakery and grocery store. Though the thought of eating spaghetti-shaped chestnut puree didn’t appeal to me, I felt it was my duty to bite the bullet and try Vermicelles at least once. When I bit into the chalky mess that the locals all seem to go crazy for, I decided that bravery has its downside. Well, they can’t all be winners. My thighs are thankful.
I know my monthly food news may not mean much to those who don’t plan to ever visit Switzerland. So the next bit of information should make you feel somewhat better. After conducting a taste test with some friends, we unanimously concluded that Lindt makes the best widely available Swiss chocolate. That’s the same brand we can buy in the U.S. for probably half the price I pay here. See, you’re really not missing out on all the fun. Plus you didn't have to suffer feeling sick from all that heavy "research" as I did (Well, it seemed like a good idea at the time). For the record, Larry believes that nothing beats a good old-fashioned American Hershey bar. (He was banned from my taste test)
Winter Fun
In early January I noticed an ice-skating rink set up in the courtyard of the fine arts museum. Kids were playing on the ice and zipping around while grown-ups sat on the sidelines under cozy blankets with their hot beverages. If the beautiful setting and the outside bar (selling Glühwein, cocoa and champagne) weren’t enough to tempt me, I learned that the skate rentals and access to the rink were entirely free of charge. Something free in Basel?! I couldn’t pass up that opportunity. Watching the kids skate outside in the courtyard of the Kunstmuseum in the early evening with the snow falling down around them gave me one of my most memorable winter moments thus far. And yes, I had the Glühwein!
Memorable winter moment number two occurred when Ken took us sledding to the German town of Inzlingen. When we arrived at our destination, it seemed as though half the locals were gathered at the park. Picnic baskets and thermoses filled with warm drinks could be spotted everywhere. And for those of us who were less prepared, Glühwein and cocoa were conveniently for sale at a nearby table. I love the way Europeans think! Despite the fact that sledding was one giant free-for-all (no designated paths for walking or sledding), we had a great time in a beautiful setting. We even managed to miraculously avoid collisions.
Ski Camp
The kids each spent a week in the Alps attending ski camp with their classes this month. Larry took off without the slightest hesitation. He knew what to expect from last year’s experience (no nagging parents for a week – woo hoo!). Nina, on the other hand, had more reservations. For weeks she flip-flopped between wanting to go and staying home. But when it came time to get on the bus, our “baby” quickly joined her posse and didn’t look back. Larry returned excited that he moved up another level in his skiing. Nina enthusiastically told us all about the souvenir shop and the food. Talk about the apple not falling far from the tree!
Larry taking on the slopes too!
Getting Out of Town
Even after a whole year of living abroad, Larry and Nina still put up a fuss whenever Ken and I announce we’re going on a family adventure. This month’s daytrip to Solothurn was met with our children’s usual outbursts and moaning. The piercing look on Nina’s face as we headed out the door had me convinced she would never come around to enjoying herself. Two closed castles and many more evil glares later, we finally got our happy Nina moment. Who knew that telling the kids to go pick a statue’s nose could turn the day around?
A good playground doesn’t hurt the cause either:
And how about getting to flip over in a car?
I just hope our children can forgive us for making them suffer through all of these family days because mom has a lot more to accomplish on her schedule!
Excerpts from the Journals of Larry and Nina
A few days ago I went to Baden. We went to a really cool park. There was a little black Narnia tunnel that you crawl through, a long rope…where you try to swing from mushroom to mushroom…They have ball runs, soccer fields and music things. The other [attractions] are just too hard to explain. Yet they were so so fun!
Nina, January 27, 2009
During our trip to Baden we went to a teddy bear museum. One of my favorite displays was one where a bear dressed up like a doctor operating on another teddy bear…There was a big [display] where there was a doll in bed asleep with all the animals playing and causing chaos and whatnot. It was one cool thing! I loved it so much!
Nina, January 29, 2009
I got hyper a lot at ski camp. We went down a red slope and we skied down the mountain…The food was one of the worst food weeks in my life. Even the burgers were bad. The name of my room was the TGIFridays. It was so fun at ski camp…Ski camp was one of the best experiences of my life. But not the food.
Larry, January 23, 2009
The Baden playground was totally tight. There was awesome stuff there. Like: Narnia tunnel, rope structures, mushroom swing, boinger (trampoline), ball run, Rapunzel castle, and a lot more. I flew like three feet in the air on the boinger. One of my favorites was the Rapunzel castle.
Larry, January 27, 2009
The End
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